V1419 Sewalong

I have finally finished making my Ralph Rucci coat! It felt like it took forever, so I was pleased to finish it. Sometimes when you’re slogging through something, you forget that there’s going to be an actual wearable (hopefully) garment at the end of it, which is why I now feel like “oh, look, I have a new coat”.

I first heard about this pattern when Lladybird tweeted about it, as part of the McCall Sewalong and I LOVE her finished version. That red fabric is amazing, it just seems to suck in all the light, if you know what I mean.

The fabric I used is a mystery fabric, as it was a gift from my mother in law. And although she will have told me at the time, I have no idea what the fibre content of this stuff is, only that it is very warm, probably a wool mix. And the lining, also a gift, is orange, very silky but also stretchy. Good enough for ya, fact fans? No. Well. I’m sorry, I will work on that.

We went on a walk in the woods to take photos but I had the WORST photo bomber following me around, look:

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And her clothes aren’t even handmade! I blame the parents. So you’re going to have to put up with indoor photos on the dummy, which is only a shame in that the shoulders of this coat look way better on actual arms.

The coat isn’t actually lined, as the pattern requires that you bind all seams (yes, EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM) so I instead underlined it, which is where you cut out lining fabric using the same pattern pieces and then tack each lining piece to each coat piece, treating them as one when you come to sew it all together. It only added a little bit of time, and I think the end result is good, not least because it means I can take it on and off smoothly.

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I’ve lightened these photos, in reality it’s a lot blacker, and the texture of the fabric is less easy to make out (it feels really nice though).

The buttons were ones I got from the market. I may change these at some point as I think they’re a bit dull.

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I’m pleased with the drape of the fabric. I was initially worried that the fabric would be too saggy on its own so there is actually another layer of fabric between the coat fabric and the underlining. I know, excessive, huh? BUT not wasteful as I actually used the muslin (that I had made to make sure the coat was a good fit). I just took the muslin apart with a seam ripper and inserted the individual pieces between the coat and lining. As I was already underlining, there was no extra sewing to do.

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Speaking of fit, a few people on the sewalong mentioned that the sizing was coming out too small. I cut a UK size 10, which is what I pretty much always cut for Vogue patterns, and it was fine, even possibly a little large around the waist. So I have no idea what was going on there, unless it was a mix up between US and UK sizes?

Right, lining. I chose orange! Orange is my favourite colour and I like the orange/black combo. Not just for halloween, folks. Here is the coat turned inside out, and you can see the black binding. That’s the pocket.

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This is the sleeve lining. If you’re wondering why that bottom triangle of the sleeve is in black instead of orange, I did it like that as the sleeves are very wide. Although I wanted you to be able to see little flashes of orange, I think an entirely orange sleeve would be a bit annoying. I was going to make a Wizard’s sleeve joke here but my mother in law sometimes reads these posts.

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So there you have it. I’m pleased with the end result. It took a while but it’s good to do longer projects every now and then. Immediately after finishing it I made a jersey vest that took 2 hours and made me remember why I liked sewing. I actually recommend doing that, it’s like a palate cleanser between courses 🙂